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Business & Tech

Sidewalk Bistro: Escargot, Bouillabaisse And A Lesson In French History

Piermont's Sidewalk Bistro offers a formal yet relaxed atmosphere where diners can enjoy a quick bite with a glass of wine—or settle in for a truly exquisite dining experience.

Legend has it when the Russian Cossacks occupied Paris in the early 1800s, they were notoriously demanding, especially when it came to the business of dining. Insisting on the impossible—i.e., the swift delivery of time-consuming kitchen masterpieces—they could be heard shouting what the French heard as "Bistro!" (this sounding much the same as the Russian word for "quickly").

From this, the term "bistro" was born.

Regardless of its roots, the expectation continues to seem an impossible contradiction of sorts: the tidy presentation of perfect courses, cooked up in a jiffy but crafted by a patient chef in a nurturing kitchen.

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But such is the case of Sidewalk Bistro, an indoor/outdoor café plunked on the main street USA-esque sidewalk of Piermont. And Sidewalk Bistro delivers what its name suggests: scrumptious Mediterranean cuisine that draws its appeal from the fruits and vegetables sold in open-air markets, catch of the day seasonal fish, and farm fresh dairy and meats.

With its tomato red awning and umbrellas, this dining spot certainly dresses the part—and its menu is unequivocally French. A hip and chill mood is further expressed throughout the inside dining space via plain wooden chairs, a simple and polished mahogany bar, dim lighting and paintings hung on lemony butter colored walls (and it's all done by local talent, too). Brasserie-style hanging mirrors share wall space with vintage aperitif posters, completing the vibe.

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And as if that wasn't enough—an expansive tree shaded patio in the back adds to the seating options with its own full bar and a contagiously lively vibe. This allows for an impromptu night out, getting your drink on and still having a quality kitchen at your disposal. There's nothing better.

For those who are looking for the new and improved, the menu is hot-off-the-press thanks to Executive Chef Xavier Mayonove's mission to stir it up a bit. While many of the items maintain French old school authenticity (bouillabaissecassolette d'escargots and gratinee a l'oignon, to name a few), Mayonove has added New Orleans style jumbo lump crab cakes with a wasabi-mango sauce and a butterflied boneless whole Branzino in brown butter with capers (some of the tastiest fish I've had in a while). If just stopping in for an amuse bouché in passing, you can share a charcuterie plate with a glass of Chardonnay or sit at the bar and sling down fresh oysters with a Muscadet.

After placing our order, my party and I found ourselves kicking off our shoes, sipping down tall, chilled glasses of Pinot Grigio and digging into the experience; a perfect marriage of luxury and comfort dining. Sidewalk's wine list offers sublime pairing options recommended by an obviously knowledgeable wait staff.

We started with the escargot, served piping hot and plump with a spinach puree and garlicky breading; hot baguettes, perfect for soaking, accompanied. Soft shelled crab, another one of my seasonal favorites, were sautéed to a delectable crispness and appointed with a shoe string potato stick bundle atop. The goat cheese ravioli was cooked to a perfect al dente and plunked into a rich velvety cream bath. A brimming bowl of tiny mussels steeped in white wine and shallots was a hit, as was the shredded duck leg confit Provençale with mashed potatoes and a mushroom jus, crisp and moist as duck should be. We topped the meal off with dreamy deserts; light crème puffs and hot chocolate molten cake.

Also, the staff at Sidewalk proved to be on point and attentive without being intrusive.

Ours was a seasoned pro all the way, good-humored and caught us all off guard, when after belting out an impressive Happy Birthday rendition to a blushing birthday boy, she broke into a hearty aria from the classic opera, Carmen.

Our party of four ended up savoring the meal for hours, hence "closing the place."

As we made our way out, we spotted Chef Xavier and the owner of Sidewalk himself sitting down to a full course meal, served just as if they too were dining here on a maiden voyage. The table was quiet and focused as they ate with gusto and content.

Quite the good sign, wouldn't you say?

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